Töltött Káposzta Recipe

The first thing I notice when these cabbage rolls are done is how the tomato sauce, sauerkraut, and pork have melded into something much deeper than any one of them tastes on its own. This Hungarian version uses a half head of cabbage, which is just enough to make eight generous rolls without leaving you with a mountain of leftovers. The filling is a simple mixture of ground pork, diced onion, paprika, and rice, but the cabbage leaves give it a soft, savory wrapper while the sauerkraut brings a clean, tangy edge that keeps the rich pork from feeling heavy. The rice is the part that deserves respect. I use the 1½ cups only after rinsing it well and briefly par-cooking it, then cool it before mixing it with the pork. That gives the grains a head start without making the filling mushy. If you add the rice raw, it can swell dramatically inside the rolls and split them; if you cook it completely, the finished filling tends to lose its pleasant, slightly firm texture. Season the mixture lightly at this stage, remembering that the sauerkraut and sauce will add salt as everything simmers. Blanch the cabbage leaves until they are flexible but not limp, then trim away the thick central rib so each leaf folds neatly. Place a modest handful of filling near the stem end, fold in the sides, and roll firmly—though not tightly. The rice needs room to expand. I spread some of the cup of sauerkraut in the bottom of a heavy pot, arrange the rolls seam-side down, and tuck the rest around them before pouring over the tomato sauce and enough water or stock to come partway up the rolls. Keep the pot at a very gentle simmer for about two hours. A hard boil is the quickest way to tear the leaves and dry out the pork. Serve the rolls hot with a spoonful of the ½ cup sour cream on top, or pass extra sour cream at the table. They are especially good with dark rye bread or crusty bread for soaking up the paprika-tinted sauce, and a crisp cucumber salad or lightly dressed green salad provides welcome freshness. This is a dish I prefer to make earlier in the day, since the rolls hold beautifully and often taste even better after resting and reheating gently. Just keep them covered and warm them in their sauce so the cabbage stays tender rather than drying at the edges.