New England Clam Chowder Recipe

The best part of this New England clam chowder is the way a few modest ingredients build a remarkably deep broth. Six strips of salt pork or bacon are rendered until crisp, leaving behind enough smoky fat to soften the diced onion and celery. That savory base is balanced by the clean brininess of two pounds of clams and a cup of clam juice, while potatoes make the soup substantial without turning it heavy. A small amount of heavy cream and butter at the end gives it a smooth, rounded finish rather than the thick, floury texture found in some chowders. The technique that matters most is keeping the clams and dairy on a short leash. Steam the clams just until they open, then strain their cooking liquid through a fine sieve or a layer of cheesecloth to catch any sand. Add that liquid to the pot with the potatoes so they absorb the clam flavor as they cook. Once the potatoes are tender, stir in the cream and butter, then return the chopped clam meat just long enough to warm it through. A hard boil at this stage can make the clams unpleasantly chewy and may cause the cream to separate. Taste the broth before adding any salt, especially if you are using salt pork and bottled clam juice; both can vary considerably in saltiness. I usually hold off on seasoning until the potatoes are cooked, then add black pepper and salt in small increments. For the best texture, cut the potatoes into evenly sized pieces—about three-quarters of an inch is ideal—so they become tender at the same time without dissolving into the broth. If the chowder seems too thick after standing, loosen it with a splash of clam juice or milk rather than boiling in extra cream. This makes a satisfying dinner on a cool evening, particularly with oyster crackers, toasted sourdough, or a simple green salad dressed with lemon. The crisp bacon or salt pork on top adds a nice contrast to the tender potatoes and creamy broth, so reserve some instead of stirring every piece into the pot. It is also a lovely lunch the next day, although it reheats best gently over low heat; let it steam rather than boil, and add a little milk if the potatoes have absorbed too much of the broth.