Haggis Recipe

The first time I made haggis, I underestimated how much the oatmeal changes the mixture as it cooks. This version uses a pound of cleaned sheep offal, traditionally liver, heart, and lungs, along with diced onion, suet, and a cup of oatmeal. The result is much better than its reputation suggests: savory and richly meaty, with a gentle sweetness from the onion and a nutty chew from the toasted grain. The suet melts into the filling, keeping it moist while the oatmeal absorbs the juices and gives each slice enough structure to hold together. Begin by simmering the offal until tender, then let it cool enough to handle before chopping it finely. I prefer a knife for at least some of the mixture rather than turning everything into a paste; small pieces of liver and heart give the finished haggis a pleasantly varied texture. Mix them with the onion, oatmeal, suet, and a teaspoon each of your chosen spices and seasonings. The mixture should look slightly loose before it goes into the casing. That is intentional—the oatmeal swells during cooking, and packing it tightly is one of the easiest ways to split the stomach or casing. Rinse the cleaned sheep stomach or casing thoroughly, inside and out, and check it for thin spots. Spoon in the filling, leaving generous room for expansion, then sew or tie the opening securely. Prick the casing in several places with a needle, especially near the top, and lower it into barely simmering water. Keep the heat gentle for the full three hours; a hard boil can burst the casing and wash flavor out of the filling. I keep a kettle of hot water nearby so I can top up the pot without dropping the temperature. Once cooked, let the haggis rest for 10 to 15 minutes before opening it. This is a fitting centerpiece for a Burns Night supper, Hogmanay, or any cold-weather dinner where you want something distinctly Scottish and substantial. Serve it traditionally with buttery mashed potatoes and mashed swede or turnips, whose sweetness balances the peppery, earthy filling. A little whisky cream sauce is excellent, though a spoonful of sharp mustard or a tart oatcake on the side works too. With eight servings, it is also worth making the full quantity: leftovers reheat beautifully in a skillet, where the cut edges become crisp while the center stays soft.