Arancini Recipe

The best part of these arancini is the contrast between the crisp coating and the soft, savory rice inside. The risotto rice cooks up creamy with parmesan, while the frozen peas add little sweet, fresh-tasting pockets throughout. I like using mozzarella in the center rather than stirring all of it into the rice: each fried ball gets a stretchy, molten middle that stays distinct from the cheesy rice. With three cups of rice, this recipe makes eight generously sized arancini—substantial enough for dinner, not just a small appetizer. Give yourself time to cool the rice properly. Spread the cooked risotto mixture on a baking sheet or large plate rather than leaving it in a deep bowl; it will cool faster and more evenly that way. Once it is cool enough to handle, take a portion in damp hands, press a cube or small piece of mozzarella into the center, and close the rice firmly around it. Any exposed cheese will try to escape in the oil, so take a moment to seal cracks before coating. The flour, beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs from six slices create a sturdy shell, but the rice balls should still be handled gently so they keep their shape. For the cleanest coating, chill the shaped arancini for 15 to 20 minutes before frying if your kitchen is warm or the rice feels soft. Heat the oil until a breadcrumb dropped in immediately sizzles; if the oil is too cool, the arancini absorb it, and if it is too hot, the outside browns before the mozzarella melts. Fry in batches without crowding the pan, turning them as needed until evenly golden, then drain on a rack or paper towels. The peas can be folded into the rice before shaping, and the four eggs are best beaten well so they coat each ball evenly without leaving bald patches. Serve these for dinner with warm marinara sauce for dipping or spooned underneath, plus a sharply dressed green salad to balance the rich coating and cheese. They are especially good straight from the fryer, when the center is still soft and stretchy, but they also hold well for a short time in a low oven if you need to finish several batches. A crisp Italian white, such as Pinot Grigio, works nicely, while sparkling water with lemon keeps the meal bright. Plan on about 45 minutes for preparation and 30 minutes for cooking, including shaping and frying.