Vitello Tonnato Recipe

The magic of this Italian dinner is the contrast: tender, rosy veal beneath a cool, savory tuna sauce. For this version, a 2-pound veal roast is gently cooked with white wine, then chilled before slicing, while four 6-ounce tuna steaks form the sauce’s substantial, fresh-tasting base. It is not a heavy gravy; the tuna is blended with minced anchovies, capers, mayonnaise, and lemon into something creamy, briny, and bright enough to make the mild veal taste remarkably special. The technique that matters most is keeping both the veal and tuna from overcooking. Cook the veal gently in the wine until just tender, rather than letting it boil hard, and allow it to cool fully before cutting. The tuna can be cooked until barely done, then flaked and blended with the mayonnaise, anchovies, capers, and plenty of lemon juice. A little of the veal’s cooking liquid loosens the sauce and ties the two main components together. The finished texture should be smooth enough to spoon, but not so thin that it runs off the meat; a few capers left slightly chunky provide a welcome bite. Plan ahead for the chilling time, even though the active preparation is straightforward. Warm veal is difficult to slice neatly and tends to shred, while cold veal cuts into the thin, even pieces this dish needs. I usually wrap the cooked roast and refrigerate it for several hours, or overnight, then slice it with the sharpest knife in the kitchen. If the sauce thickens in the refrigerator, stir in a teaspoon or two of water, lemon juice, or reserved cooking liquid rather than adding more mayonnaise. Taste it after chilling, since cold temperatures soften acidity and salt. Vitello tonnato is elegant enough for a holiday dinner but practical for a summer table because it is served cool and can be prepared in advance. Arrange the veal on a platter, spread the tuna sauce over it, and finish with extra capers and lemon. Serve it with a bitter green salad, roasted or grilled vegetables, crusty bread, or a simple potato salad. A crisp white wine works particularly well, especially one with enough acidity to cut through the mayonnaise and complement the lemon, anchovies, and white wine in the sauce.