Falafel Recipe

What makes this falafel especially good is the balance between a deeply savory chickpea base and a generous amount of fresh herbs. Using 1 pound of dried chickpeas—not canned—gives the patties their characteristic nubby texture and keeps them from turning soft or pasty. The two onions, four garlic cloves, half a cup each of parsley and cilantro, cumin, and coriander create a mixture that is fragrant without being dominated by any single spice. Once fried, the outside turns crisp and well browned while the center stays tender, green-flecked, and substantial. Start with chickpeas that have been soaked in plenty of cold water overnight, then drain them very well before processing. Excess water is the quickest way to end up with falafel that spreads or falls apart in the pan. Pulse the chickpeas with the onions, garlic, parsley, cilantro, cumin, and coriander until the mixture resembles coarse sand with no whole chickpeas remaining. It should hold together when squeezed, but it should not look like hummus. I like to let the mixture sit for 10 minutes after stirring in the baking powder; that brief rest gives the chickpeas time to hydrate slightly and helps the falafel puff just enough as it cooks. Form the mixture into compact patties or small balls, keeping them fairly uniform so they finish at the same time. Heat a shallow layer of neutral oil over medium heat and test one piece first. It should sizzle immediately but steadily, not darken within seconds. Cook for about 3 minutes per side, turning once, until the exterior is crisp and brown. If the first falafel cracks in the oil, chill the shaped mixture for 15 minutes or stir in another spoonful of ground chickpeas if you have them; adding flour can make the centers heavy. Avoid overcrowding the pan, since a crowded skillet lowers the oil temperature and produces greasy rather than crisp falafel. Serve these for dinner tucked into warm pita with chopped tomato and cucumber, pickled turnips, and a drizzle of tahini sauce, or arrange them over a salad of greens, herbs, and lemony cabbage. A spoonful of plain yogurt or a sharp garlic sauce is welcome alongside, as is rice or roasted vegetables for a more substantial plate. They are best straight from the pan, but you can shape the mixture earlier in the day and refrigerate it, then fry just before serving. With the 20 minutes of active preparation and roughly 15 minutes of cooking, this recipe makes four generous servings once the chickpeas have been soaked.