Pad See Ew (Thai Stir-Fried Noodles) Recipe

The best pad see ew has a little smoky char around the edges of the noodles, tender pieces of chicken or pork, and just enough sauce clinging to every wide rice noodle. This 25-minute version gets there by cooking everything in stages rather than crowding the pan: sear the meat first, soften the Chinese broccoli, scramble the eggs, and bring it all together only at the end. The result is far more satisfying than noodles that have been simmered in sauce from the start. Wide rice noodles are the ingredient that requires the most care. If using dried noodles, soak them until pliable but still slightly firm in the center; they will finish cooking in the wok. Fresh noodles can usually go straight in, though I separate them gently so they do not tear. The sauce combines oyster sauce, soy sauce, fish sauce, and sugar for the characteristic salty-sweet depth of pad see ew. The listed 1/2 cup sugar makes a notably sweet sauce, so if you prefer a more savory restaurant-style balance, reserve some and add it gradually rather than tipping it all in at once. A large, very hot skillet or wok makes this recipe much easier. Cook the 1 1/2 pounds of chicken or pork in a single layer, working in batches if needed; otherwise the meat will release liquid and steam instead of browning. The same goes for the noodles. Add them after the eggs have set, pour the sauce around the sides of the pan, and toss with a light hand. Let the noodles sit undisturbed for 20 to 30 seconds at a time so they can pick up browned spots without breaking apart. If they seem dry, add a tablespoon of water, but avoid flooding the pan. Serve pad see ew immediately for lunch, while the noodles are glossy and the gai lan is still bright and crisp-tender. It needs little beside it, although cucumber slices, lime wedges, and a small dish of chili flakes or chili vinegar provide welcome contrast to the sweet sauce. A simple Thai iced tea or cold lager works well, too. For four servings, divide it straight from the wok rather than letting it sit in a serving bowl, where the noodles can continue absorbing sauce and lose their appealing, chewy texture.