Onigiri Recipe

The best onigiri are made while the sushi rice is still slightly warm, when it clings together without turning gummy. In this version, six rice balls are filled with tender flaked salmon and bright umeboshi (pickled plum), then finished with sesame seeds and plenty of nori. The salmon makes them satisfying enough for dinner, while the sharp, salty plum cuts through its richness. I especially like using a little chopped pickled plum in the rice as well as placing a whole piece in the center; that gives every bite a gentle tang instead of leaving all the filling in one spot. Start with 2 cups of cooked sushi rice, ideally prepared ahead and cooled just enough to handle. If you are using leftover salmon, remove the skin and bones and flake the meat into small pieces. A moist piece of roasted, poached, or grilled salmon works best; very dry salmon will make the filling crumbly. Mix the salmon with some of the 1 cup of chopped umeboshi and pickled plum, reserving a few pieces for the centers. The combination of savory fish, sticky rice, tart plum, and toasted sesame has much more contrast than a plain rice-and-fish filling. The practical trick is to keep a bowl of water nearby and wet your hands before shaping each onigiri. Sushi rice is sticky by design, but damp hands let you press it firmly without losing half the rice to your fingers. Scoop out a portion, flatten it in your palm, add salmon and plum, then fold the rice around the filling and press into a triangle or rounded ball. Do not overfill: about a tablespoon of salmon mixture is plenty for each piece. Press firmly enough that there are no cracks, but stop before compacting the rice into a dense block. Roll each onigiri in sesame seeds, then wrap with strips or squares of nori just before serving so the seaweed stays crisp. These are excellent for a simple Japanese-style dinner, especially alongside miso soup, cucumber sunomono, edamame, or a few slices of tamagoyaki. They also pack well for a picnic or lunch, though I would keep the nori separate and add it shortly before eating. Serve them at room temperature rather than chilled; cold rice becomes noticeably firm and dulls the plum and salmon. If making them in advance, wrap each rice ball individually and use them within the day, since the umeboshi will gradually soften the rice and the nori will lose its pleasant snap.