Pão de Queijo Recipe

The best thing about these Brazilian cheese breads is the contrast: the outside bakes into a lightly crisp shell while the center stays stretchy, chewy, and almost custard-soft. This version is especially satisfying because it uses a simple batter of tapioca flour, milk, oil, eggs, and a full two cups of Parmesan. The Parmesan gives the rolls a pronounced salty, nutty flavor rather than the mild cheesiness you get from a small handful of cheese, and the tapioca flour keeps them naturally light and pleasantly springy. They are made in a muffin tin, so each one develops a nicely browned edge and a rounded top. The technique is easy, but the order and temperature of the ingredients matter. Warm the milk and oil together until steaming, then pour them over the tapioca flour and stir until the mixture looks thick and slightly gummy. That brief scalding step hydrates the flour and is what helps create the characteristic chewy texture. Once it has cooled a little, blend in the six eggs, Parmesan, and salt. The batter will be looser than a typical biscuit dough—closer to a thick pancake batter—so don’t add extra flour when it looks pourable. Divide it among 12 well-greased muffin cups, filling each about two-thirds full, and bake at 375°F until puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. My most useful tip is to let the scalded tapioca mixture cool for several minutes before adding the eggs. If it is piping hot, the eggs can begin to set in streaks, leaving the batter uneven and the finished rolls dense. I also grate the Parmesan finely so it disperses throughout the batter instead of sinking, and I avoid opening the oven during the first 15 minutes. These breads rise from steam, and a sudden drop in heat can make their centers collapse. They are best served warm, when the cheese is still soft and the middle has its characteristic pull. Although they are often served at breakfast or as a snack in Brazil, this batch makes a wonderful savory addition to dinner. Serve the 12 rolls alongside grilled chicken, roast vegetables, tomato soup, or a crisp green salad; their salty Parmesan flavor is particularly good with anything featuring beans or a bright vinaigrette. They can be prepared and baked within the stated 35 minutes, and leftovers reheat well in a hot oven or air fryer, where the exterior crisps up again without turning the center tough.